| Author |
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| Courk |
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| Courk |
Posted: Fri Mar 07, 2008 5:15 am Post subject: 0 |
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Yeah, the Tardis landed on a 1970s carpet.
From base to lantern tip I think it's about 10 inches. I measured it as the lantern glue was drying, so I was kind of eyeballing the measuring tape from a distance. It was my second try at a lantern and I didn't want to mess it up. |
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| GH |
Posted: Thu Mar 06, 2008 9:14 pm Post subject: -1 |
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| Courk wrote: |
| It's a Tardis console. |
It looks like a toilet plunger.
I love the phone booth. That's really neat. How big is it? |
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| Poisonium |
Posted: Thu Mar 06, 2008 9:12 pm Post subject: -2 |
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| Nice carpet! |
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| Courk |
Posted: Thu Mar 06, 2008 3:10 pm Post subject: -3 |
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Thanks DF!
It's a Tardis console. I'm not the best with taking pictures, sorry.
And of course this is why I have a gashed finger. The knobs on the phone are cut from a round toothpick. The little pieces I cut off kept flying across the room, so eventually I decided it'd be wise to cut against my thumb. My thumb lost. Razor blades have a long history of sneak attacks on me, going back to the ATAT I built.
Sadly, although doll-making is the only think i learned in Girl Scouts, I don't remember it (guess I can't really say I "learned" it then, huh?). |
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| Dented Ford |
Posted: Thu Mar 06, 2008 8:08 am Post subject: -4 |
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Very impressive (although the picture of the "this" could be clearer).
It doesn't have anything to do with why you have a gashed finger, does it? You weren't messing about with industrial lathes, were you?
And you had me believing all you knew about was knitting dolls.  |
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| Poisonium |
Posted: Thu Mar 06, 2008 7:54 am Post subject: -5 |
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Hey, it's in Harry Potter 5 too!
What is "this"?  |
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| Courk |
Posted: Thu Mar 06, 2008 5:03 am Post subject: -6 |
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I don't have access to Time Lord technology. Sorry.  |
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| Neo |
Posted: Thu Mar 06, 2008 4:39 am Post subject: -7 |
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| Why isn't it bigger on the inside? |
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| Courk |
Posted: Thu Mar 06, 2008 2:45 am Post subject: -8 |
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| MatthewV wrote: |
| What are you making? |
A home for this:
Voila!
The left door opens, too, but I didn't think you needed a hundred pictures of it. It still needs varnish. |
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| wordcross |
Posted: Thu Feb 14, 2008 12:33 am Post subject: -9 |
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| I'm... not entirely sure I understand that post. I think I might, but I don't know enough about working with lathes. |
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| MatthewV |
Posted: Sun Feb 10, 2008 1:15 am Post subject: -10 |
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One way to bore a thread would be to drill a hole and then tap it. A tap is like a cross between a screw for the purpose of cutting threads. This could be done on a drill press, mill or by hand. Be careful because taps are easy to break.
The other way would be to use the thread settings on a lathe. By fixing the rotation of the work (the thing in the chuck that is being cut ) and the horizontal feed rate, threads can be cut. Very deep threads can be cut because the cutting tool is always in the same point of the rotating work at any horizontal position.
The Monarch lathe I've worked with was capable of cutting over 100 threads per inch. |
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| Courk |
Posted: Sat Feb 09, 2008 11:36 pm Post subject: -11 |
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I could guess what boring a thread meant, but wasn't sure. I didn't ask that, though, I said I don't know *how* to bore a thread. 'Twas not a joke, it was a legitimate attempt to gain more information.
And I'm a girl. |
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| Zag |
Posted: Sat Feb 09, 2008 10:04 pm Post subject: -12 |
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| I suspect Courk knew that. She was just making a joke on how very exciting all threads in which she is involved tend to become. |
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| MatthewV |
Posted: Sat Feb 09, 2008 6:59 pm Post subject: -13 |
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| What are you making? |
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| MatthewV |
Posted: Sat Feb 09, 2008 6:56 pm Post subject: -14 |
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"Bore a thread" means to put threads on the inside of a hole. It would be basically impossible unless you had a very thick piece of balsa. It is essential when working with metal.
You will want to carefully (slowly) drill a hole slightly smaller than your nail. This will make the nail not as strong of a connection, but you won't splinter the wood. |
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| Dented Ford |
Posted: Sat Feb 09, 2008 5:36 pm Post subject: -15 |
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| You could read to it from one of Samadhi's maths textbooks. |
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| Courk |
Posted: Sat Feb 09, 2008 3:35 pm Post subject: -16 |
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I don't know how to bore a thread.
Shut up, Amb. :-P |
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| Amb |
Posted: Sat Feb 09, 2008 10:22 am Post subject: -17 |
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| Quote: |
And if you want to go the extra distance, bore some threads.
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I so want to say it.... |
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| Samadhi |
Posted: Sat Feb 09, 2008 8:45 am Post subject: -18 |
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No. A drill press would be best (precise control), but a drill will suffice with a delicate touch. Just using a screw will cause only slightly less stress than a nail.
And if you want to go the extra distance, bore some threads. That produces less stress than just using a screw. |
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| Courk |
Posted: Sat Feb 09, 2008 7:41 am Post subject: -19 |
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| Would it be better to just go at it with the screw itself instead of drilling a hole first? |
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| Samadhi |
Posted: Sat Feb 09, 2008 7:22 am Post subject: -20 |
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| An exceptionally slow depression speed would work. |
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| Courk |
Posted: Sat Feb 09, 2008 7:01 am Post subject: -21 |
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And quite possibly my last question on the subject of balsa wood:
I have to drill a hole for a screw about 1 mm to 1/16 of an inch from the edge of one of the pieces (yes I'm mixing units). Any tips on how to avoid it splitting? Would a bit of super glue over the hole site to the edge be helpful? |
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| MatthewV |
Posted: Fri Feb 08, 2008 3:39 am Post subject: -22 |
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| Sometime the wood will soak up too much superglue to get a good bond. I would use a scrap piece first to see how easy it works. |
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| Courk |
Posted: Thu Feb 07, 2008 10:20 pm Post subject: -23 |
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| Any reason why I couldn't use super glue to hold certain parts together? The balsa will be rather thin -- hopefully 1/16 inch. Super glue won't bleed through that, will it? The rest will likely be wood glue (or possibly regular elmers... we'll see how cheap I get) |
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| Beartalon |
Posted: Wed Feb 06, 2008 11:57 pm Post subject: -24 |
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| Samadhi wrote: |
| I'm just offended that anyone would start a discussion about how to make one's wood harder. |
| Courk wrote: |
| It's how to make my wood harder. |
That makes it even worse. |
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| Courk |
Posted: Tue Feb 05, 2008 6:33 am Post subject: -25 |
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| I don't need a whole lot of it, though. |
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| Quailman |
Posted: Tue Feb 05, 2008 4:43 am Post subject: -26 |
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| Your craft store has a wide selection, as long as it's name is spelled h-o-m-e_d-e-p-o-t. |
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| MatthewV |
Posted: Tue Feb 05, 2008 4:13 am Post subject: -27 |
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| A few layers of paper and varnish coating can make a fairly durable item. Probably stronger (but heavier) then just balsa wood. And it is cheaper. |
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| Courk |
Posted: Tue Feb 05, 2008 2:19 am Post subject: -28 |
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Well, it remains to be seen what brands my craft stores have. If they have any...
Ever use acrylic varnish over paper? How does that turn out? |
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| ChienFou |
Posted: Tue Feb 05, 2008 12:09 am Post subject: -29 |
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| Yep Courky, pretty much what I had in mind - your trade names are different to ours but it looks what I'd have used, and you should be able to paint over it. When the box is finished, rub the thing over with very fine sandpaper, which removes any bits, and creates a very smooth (and slightly scored) surface that will take a 2nd coat, either of paint or of varnish and look great |
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| Amb |
Posted: Mon Feb 04, 2008 10:53 pm Post subject: -30 |
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But by pointing it out, did you not just ruin it's beauty  |
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| Mackay |
Posted: Mon Feb 04, 2008 10:21 pm Post subject: -31 |
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| Samadhi wrote: |
| I'm just offended that anyone would start a discussion about how to make one's wood harder. |
I'm impressed that it's a serious discussion about how to make one's wood harder, complete with a serious response suggesting one rubs Vaseline or hand lotion onto it. This thread is beautiful.
(P.S. I hear that works, but only temporarily ) |
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| Courk |
Posted: Mon Feb 04, 2008 8:22 pm Post subject: -32 |
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Chien: How will this varnish affect the visibility of the wood grain when I paint it? I'd actually like the grain to be slightly visible.
Also, something like this then?: http://www.liquitex.com/Products/varglossmedvarflex.cfm |
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| Chuck |
Posted: Mon Feb 04, 2008 6:36 pm Post subject: -33 |
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| If you pick it up soon after you varnish it then there's less chance that you'll drop it. |
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| ChienFou |
Posted: Mon Feb 04, 2008 6:04 pm Post subject: -34 |
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Varnish it before use with an acrylic or epoxy varnish. You now have an insanely strong outer casing to the timber itself and a timber matrix forming a box girder construction. Pound for pound it'll be similar strength as steel. After you've cut it varnish the end grain too. When finished another coat of varnish after you've used the finest grain sandpaper to smooth and roughen the acrylic will give a magnificent finish.
ChienFou (Chartered Engineer) |
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| Courk |
Posted: Sun Feb 03, 2008 5:03 pm Post subject: -35 |
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| It's how to make my wood harder. |
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| Samadhi |
Posted: Sun Feb 03, 2008 12:12 pm Post subject: -36 |
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| I'm just offended that anyone would start a discussion about how to make one's wood harder. |
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| Dented Ford |
Posted: Sun Feb 03, 2008 10:08 am Post subject: -37 |
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well, yes, I was! |
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| The Ragin' South Asian |
Posted: Sun Feb 03, 2008 10:07 am Post subject: -38 |
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| Dented Ford wrote: |
| Dry balsa is pretty brittle though. Now... I hestitate to say this because I might just be completely suckered, but, I was told... that it could help to use vaseline or handcream on it to improve elasticity and flexible resilience. I don't know if this might make it swell and warp though. Or even if it was a serious suggestion. |
Are we still talking about balsa? |
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